What’s Really in Your Braiding Hair?
- Sabrina McCrear
- Apr 9
- 5 min read
Synthetic braiding hair contains carcinogens, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and heavy metals, all of which are associated with health risks like cancer and hormonal disruptions.
After experiencing scalp irritation from synthetic braids, Ciara May started Rubundle, a company that sells plant-based hair and that prides itself on being transparent with its customers.
Rebundle, May claims, is the only braiding hair company that lists all of its ingredients. The hair fibers are made from itch-free, non-toxic and biodegradable banana fibers. The manufacturing process involves plant-based ingredients to help the fibers feel and look more hair-like.
“We are trying to make sure that our message is amplified and heard across the board, giving people a realistic perspective on what they can expect from a product like ours and why they should care about the ingredients that are used in their braiding hair,” said May, who founded the company in 2019.
Now six years later, Consumer Reports has published a study indicating that synthetic braiding hair commonly used by Black women and children contains toxic materials.
The study focused on 10 different brands of synthetic hair that included materials such as carcinogens, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and heavy metals, all of which are known to cause potential health risks like cancer and hormonal disruptions when ingested, inhaled or in contact with skin.
James Roger, Ph.D., director and head of product safety testing for Consumer Reports, conducted the study after a focus group of Black women said they wanted artificial braiding hair to be tested.
“Some women or children have these braids in their heads constantly,” Rogers said. “So, we think this is a 24/7 exposure to potentially toxic chemicals that could harm women.”
Rogers is a father of two girls who often wear braids and other styles using synthetic braiding hair, increasing his motivation for the study. He also understood the need for more information on pinnacle aspects of African American culture and ancestry.
“This was going to be a personal project for me, because I have two Black daughters who use this product,” he said. “So, I had a personal interest in this, too.”
The study tested the top 10 braiding hair products based on market analysis including specific products mentioned in the initial focus group. The report took samples from each pack of hair and tested them for carcinogens, VOCs and heavy metals including arsenic, mercury, lead and cadmium.
Since Consumer Reports released its study on Feb. 27, plant-based braiding hair companies have seen an increase in awareness among consumers.
For example, May said Rebundle has “definitely seen an increase in sales, in engagement and growth in our organic traffic.”
What Are These Chemicals in My Synthetic Hair?
The report identified carcinogens, or “cancer-causing chemicals” in 100% of the samples used. However, only three tested positive for “known carcinogens.”
Carcinogens are categorized into three groups: Known, probable, and possible:
Known carcinogens are substances that have a plethora of scientific data supporting their link to cancer.
Probable carcinogens are similar in that data exists to support the substance’s link to cancer, but some scientists disagree.
Possible carcinogens, on the other hand, do not have enough data to support a link to cancer but may be similar to a known carcinogen.
Two products from the brand Sensationnel and one from Magic Fingers tested positive for the known carcinogen benzene.
Benzene can be natural or man-made. Although it can be produced in volcanoes or forest fires, it is a common substance in gasoline, cigarette smoke and pesticides, according to the CDC. Benzene is known to cause acute myeloid leukemia, irregular bone growth and anemia if inhaled or ingested.
Furthermore, nine out of the 10 braiding hair products tested positive for detectable levels of lead that with prolonged exposure could warrant substantial health issues.
Rogers’ methodology references three exposure models including ingestion, inhalation and skin contact. However, the ingestion model provided ease and quantitative data when measuring risk.
“Women that work in these salons handle these products 14, 16, 18 hours a day, are probably taking their meals, probably drinking their refreshments,” Rogers said. “This is a brittle product. We believe their pieces are shearing off. And it does not take that much ingestion of this product to get the lead exposure that we’re concerned about.”
VOCs were also detected in all 10 samples of the products. VOCs are man-made chemicals produced “in the manufacture of paints, pharmaceuticals and refrigerants,” according to the Environmental Protection Agency.
Oftentimes, hair stylists use boiling water or heat from a lighter or flat iron to seal the hair after a braided style so that it doesn’t unravel. When heated, a VOC in gas form can cause eye, nose and throat irritation, headaches and damage to the liver, kidney and central nervous system among other symptoms.
Will the FDA Regulate Artificial Braiding Hair and What Are Alternatives?
Rogers and Consumer Reports are calling for policy reform from the FDA under the Food and Drug Cosmetic Act. The article Consumer Reports published includes a petition for readers to join requesting the FDA regulate artificial braiding hair.
“In the meantime, we do know that there are some states that are putting through cosmetic safety acts,” Roger said. “We would suggest that they should add artificial braiding hair under that state regulation.”
Furthermore, Rogers suggests taking out braids or other hair styles before the four-to-six-week average and extending the time between styles to reduce exposure.
He also wants to test alternative products, such as plant-based braiding hair. Many synthetic products that Consumer Reports tested listed Kanekalon fibers as the only ingredient.
In addition to the banana fibers, Rebundle lists all ingredients on its website.
“We did that to set the standard of what we believe should be the level of transparency for this beauty product, because every other beauty product that you’ll buy that is likely FDA-regulated has to list all of its ingredients,” May said.
May’s call to action encourages other industry workers to uphold their obligation to consumers by pushing non-toxic beauty products and being transparent with product ingredients.
“People who are working in the industry should band together to make sure that we shape the industry in the way that we want to see it,” she said. “With the natural hair care movement moving away from chemical relaxers, we will see that same shift happen here, and we’re living in the midst of it.”
Sabrina McCrear covers health policy for HUNewsService.com.
